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カテゴリ:16.Till Labrador( 8 )
Over 30,000 km it was Canada everywhere (39)

by tetsu95jp | 2008-01-22 09:27 | 16.Till Labrador
Over 30,000 km it was Canada everywhere (38)
Getting on a ferry from Goose Bay and getting off at Cartwright, I felt I saw another end of the world. One night cruse brought us to a winter time, though it was still late September. On the frozen soil, every weathered house were smoking out of chimneys for their stoves. It was a lonely place, absolutely lonely place.
I dropped by St. Lewis. No tourists were there, but only strong wind of Labrador Sea. I felt that aliens or something were living there. But they were humans; when I asked for a soup and sandwich at a cafe of fishermen wharf, ladies offered me hot and tasty ones; when I accosted fishers aside a boat, they posed me saying the crab they caught was partly to be exported to Japan. Japanese business people seemed to come to such a far place from cities.


The Labrador east was in storm. When I was parking on the unpaved road to take pictures from inside of car, a road-maintenance man who finished his work got stopped his car for me. Having heard I was taking pictures, he showed his relief and left. In labrador people had to and have to be human beings before anything. I thought this weather was common here, but arriving at the B&B of L'Anse Amour I knew that it was very rare and the ferry to Newfoundland was being suspended.
The small community of L'Anse Amour has been being run by a big family. Lita, the landlady, offered us lovely traditional Cod Dinners and home-made jams. Her son, a fisherman, radioed from the ocean to her where he was. Once the Cod, she said, plummeted but this year's catch was fairly good. A guest from Ontario mentioned that the wild fish in Nova Scotia was totally destroyed but here it still survived. Worried about the operation of the ferry to Newfoundland, we, the guests and the host, had a lovely talk. When it came for me to refer that Vancouver area's no longer a mosaic but just mixing up, a lady from St. John's said that it was good.
The ferry was stopped for several days. During that time, a young female officer who was only accessible for the customers couldn't control the messy situation with no explanations. As for the other customers, they surprisingly took it easy chatting with each other regardless of seemingly endless delay. That must be out of imagination for Japanese people who are accustomed to well-ordered procedures. In Canada, people keep their own pace with the fewest personnel in any case for good or evil. When I finally got the ticket from her, I said, "This should be 'once in a life' experience for me." She smiled an awkward smile.


by tetsu95jp | 2008-01-21 08:58 | 16.Till Labrador
Over 30,000 km it was Canada everywhere (37)

by tetsu95jp | 2008-01-20 09:39 | 16.Till Labrador
Over 30,000 km it was Canada everywhere (36)
After a long long dangerous drive, my body was as if still shaking vertically in Happy Valley-Goose Bay where I firstly found the muddy water of Churchil River. "It used to be clear enough to catch Atlantic Salmon, but the construction of Churchil Falls Power Plant in '70s demolished it," said an interpreter of North West River.
He also told me that this region used to suffer from poverty but thanks to volunteers and funds from all over the world they became to have educations here. However, visiting the just next community, Sheshatshiu, an Innu First Nations, I was stunned with the life gap between them. Children didn't have lights in eyes and couldn't communicate in basic level with me; probably it was the poorest First Nations in those I observed.
The North West River people were White or mix-blooded with Innu. I don't know why the world wide help for the poverty concentrated on North West River side. Both of the communities must have suffered from difficulty to live on hunting and fishing for the civilisation of Canada, though. The representative of Labrador Interpretation Centre was proud of being a descendant of Moravian pupils taught by German missionaries. Having been led to such an unreasonable circumstance by foreign countries, how humble they are!
People in Happy Valley-Goose Bay were speaking a little bit different English; they sometimes breathed shortly in a conversation. What's happen? Looking at his or her eyes, they continued the conversations as if nothing had occurred. "People here eat Elk, Moose and Carib meet ordinarily," said the lady of B&B. Just from curiosity, I visited the butcher shop in town. First time, it was closed even around noon, but I wondered if it was really a shop because the building had no windows to see the inside. Second time, I could open the heavy door. Then there was nothing but huge cooler boxes in front of a counter. Soon an old White guy appeared from the back. I asked him for showing me goods. He pointed at cooler boxes; inside were frozen meet as well as smoked fish. That was the butcher of Happy Valley.


by tetsu95jp | 2008-01-19 08:06 | 16.Till Labrador
Over 30,000 km it was Canada everywhere (35)

by tetsu95jp | 2008-01-18 07:42 | 16.Till Labrador
Over 30,000 km it was Canada everywhere (34)
From Labrador city to Happy Vallay-Goose Bay might be one of the most dangerous highway in Canada. The unpaved road was rough with rocky stones. Other than chuckholes, you have to take care of big fragments of stones scattered on the road by maintenance machines. I met a women's group was stopping for flat-tyre. In front of a driver, merely vast tundra and taiga spreads out endlessly. It was still in the middle of September, but I saw sleet on the way. Here was certainly one of the end of the world.
When I passed a fairly big bridge, I convinced it is a good fishing point for its narrows between big waters. No one was around there, but once in a while cars passes by on the bridge. Although I was said that fishing season has ended, I tried casting just for a moment moving about.
As I was jigging as I was taught by Mr Bae at the best point I guessed, suddenly I felt a resistance for the hook. After a long moment, I strongly raised the rod. Wo, wooow, it was like a rock but moving slowly. The line was intensely escaped. I bared many times and reeled up little by little so that the monster should finally got weak. The rod I purchased in Québec bent to the limit again and again, so I had to hold it by not only my hands but also by full body on one of the piled up rocks.
When he showed its figure under the surface of red-like water, my excitement boiled up! Pike! Pike! It's 1 m class! He seemed to have no energy to resist me. However, when I pulled up the lead to land him, he shook his body violently for a moment and the lead was cat. My hands were trembling, my entire body was trembling with pleasure. It didn't stop at all for a long while. I was satisfied, I was fully satisfied; I didn't need anything any more; it was beyond the ecstasy of sex. In a moment, I started my car.

Churchill Falls was a corporate town for an underground dam. People recommended the tour to the one of the largest underground powerhouse in the world, though I declined saying that I am rather interested in environmental preservations. The motel was under the renovation, but received guests; several carpenters were doing jobs drinking beers and at night they drunk beer again with guests in the living with a Russian stove and TV.
An old carpenter told me I would easily fish any Trout or Landlocked Salmon at a certain point of a river ahead north. According to him, fish here in Labrador are a bit different from that in Québec and tastes better; he preferred the meet of Northern Pike in Labrador saying it's sweet. He said if I would go fishing take care of the Wild Life Conservation Officers who patrol around.
I tried the point he told pushing through tundra and taiga with a great effort as well as other places along the highway, but any bites never came; I was always lonely in the landscape of the end of the world. I took back a long long way to the bridge where I met the Pike.
It was getting dark and I took the same point I fished. I used the biggest lure I had, the name of which I don't know but it shapes bate. The first cast and I felt something hit the lure just before pulling it out of water. Well, it was a fish! He pulled the line and the spool cried to send out it; however, the resistance was not so strong as the Pike's. Soon he showed his figure; it was a Trout! I couldn't tell what kind it is, even after landing and measuring that it was about 60 cm. Later, however, I convinced it was a Lake Trout. Many species are hybridising these days, so it might be mix-blooded though. The excitement was less than the Pike's, though I let the fish go anyway.
The water was Ossokmanuan Reservoir for the Churchil Falls Power Plant; ironically, here too the artificial structure helped offer living places for fish. In a sense, fish here are not natural but in a huge fishing pond made by humans.
Along the highway, I found several crosses which console the souls of the dead in traffic accidents there. People in Churchil Falls know the every name and how they died. Just as well, occasionally Inukshuit which are stone figures made and spread by Inuit appeared on the roadside.
According to a guidebook, they have different forms and purposes: to show directions to travellers, to warn of impending danger, to mark a place of respect, or to act as helpers in the hunting of Caribu.


by tetsu95jp | 2008-01-17 07:16 | 16.Till Labrador
Over 30,000 km it was Canada everywhere (33)

by tetsu95jp | 2008-01-16 08:35 | 16.Till Labrador
Over 30,000 km it was Canada everywhere (32)
I drove all the way to Labrador City, but it never approached. From some point the highway again changed to unpaved road. There was no living creature to be seen but woods in the field. The wood were changing into tundra again.
The road suddenly changed to be paved and well-organised but with a lot of weeds. Soon a couple of huge silo appeared. Hearing a story to a passer-by, it was an abandoned mining town on the way of its construction. Then, even though it was raining, I decided to sleep that night in my car beside a water system so that I can fish next morning.
It was still drizzling in the morning, but I casted with a huge green minnow just for trying. The moment it dropped, the tip of the rod bent down heavily. Hooking up, I confidently reeled because of the wire lead for Pike or Musky. Wo, woow, he, heavy; besides violent! It's a Pike! I admitted the peculiar pattern of the body before landing. Seeing carefully, it looked like reptiles rather than fish especially when seen from the upper side. It was a marvel that such a primitive fish have been surviving in such an isolated interior.
Getting to Labrador City, people were again speaking English. To my surprise, I was very relieved with this despite the fact that I was not good at English. Another thing I was surprised was people were unbelievably helpful; the lady at the visitor information centre gave me reliable information of the road and also made reservations for future itinerary for me. However, she didn't know anything about fishing. To make matters worse, the fishing season in Labrador has just ended. There were no regulation guide books available though.
The iron ore mine workers were going on strike. When I focused on them, I asked for them to make it serious. However, they smiled at lens calmly. They showed their home provinces' flags with them. Such things are not able to happen in Japan where the labour unions fight for themselves. I heared that another mine company bankrupted recently because of the resistance of the workers. Here, people are working not only for themselves but also for their communities. Thus the power of the people must have changed this country; it is quite different from Japan where not individual people but organisations they belong change.
At the B&B, I met a worker from Newfoundland. According to him, almost all of the people in Labrador came from Newfoundland. As for Newfoundland, many people were from Ireland, Scotland and France. He confessed that many of the first immigrants were criminals and his ancestor too. In the living where I talked with him, a lot of Christian goods were decorated. The proprietor, Lottie, sometimes uttered nostalgic English such as "Oh, Mary."


by tetsu95jp | 2008-01-15 07:46 | 16.Till Labrador