カテゴリ:19.Till Nova Scotia( 4 )
Over 30,000 km it was Canada everywhere (48)

by tetsu95jp | 2008-01-31 08:30 | 19.Till Nova Scotia
Over 30,000 km it was Canada everywhere (47)
Until Halifax along the coast was very scenic. However, like Canso every fisher port was lonely; only crab and that sorts were to be caught. Later I knew until New Brunswick the situation was just the same to be sad. The only fisherman I saw on the way was a guy casting from a small bridge of the highway. He, looked like portuguese, said he was aiming at Mackerel, reeling with clumsy hands.
Halifax looked like a dead town; many young people were blocking up between narrow streets under the shadows of old stone-buildings. There were few Japanese restaurants in town, but I tried one of them because its chef was Japanese. However, it was the worst taste Sushi ever since and that very very expensive; it was so sour that I thought Chinese Sushi were better. I couldn't believe such a fake business as high-end restaurant were going on openly by Japanese! That was because there were few competitor then and there in Halifax, but the fact should also mean that was Canada.
There was a marking of Acadian Reagion at the tip of Dartnouth next to Halifax on the map. Visiting there, I asked information on Acadians at an A&W. A man over the counter said abruptly, "We expelled them out of this area." They didn't know their present community around there at all. Then I finally found a small Acadian community in the east bound. Almost all of the houses proudly hoisted the Acadian flags; if you have french blood no matter how, you have a right to claim you are an Acadian.
Along the road were a lot of signs of 'Antiques for sale," among them was a house surrounded by a massive yellow flowers, where I entered. An old gentleman who smelled soil came to me. He has a different atmosphere from British. Somewhat closing one of eyes, he gave me an explanation of their life. Actually his English was not so great, but he said people there usually speak English or French or German in daily life; it depends on the family. He said the flowers there were multiplied greatly from the ones his daughter planted. When I asked for the name of the place, he courteously put down that Raymond Wolfe, Grand Dessert, N.S.. I became to want to know more about Acadians.
I went down the coast. On a short ferry crossing a river, a local man said this river used to be a Salmon river but any more because of the pollution. Nevertheless it looked clear reflecting the beginnings of yellow and red leaves; autumn has just came. I remembered that Loretta, a B&B lady, said Newfoundland has almost no red leaves in autumn.
The houses along the coast line were simple and old; with them people here and there seemed to be living frugally. At West Berlin, I asked a resident why there are place names related with Germany around there. He opened up hands with his one of eyes closed. The houses were all old but the owners seemed to be changed often.


by tetsu95jp | 2008-01-30 06:59 | 19.Till Nova Scotia
Over 30,000 km it was Canada everywhere (46)

by tetsu95jp | 2008-01-29 09:05 | 19.Till Nova Scotia
Over 30,000 km it was Canada everywhere (45)
I got on board the final ferry of the season from Argentia, Newfounfland to North Sydney, Nova Scotia. Overnight ferry with awful vibration was no longer new for me, but I felt Atlantic Ocean is huge.
It was about time I purchased several underwear. Searching for an appropriate shop, I drove round Sydney. The town was old, but many streets were somewhat under construction maybe being renovated. Other than that, the streets and houses looked like the same as the West Coast, but coloured people were not to be seen. Finally I bought underwear at a shopping mall. When I said I travelled across Canada from Vancouver, the cute White girl salesclerk replied with smile and said that pronunciation of West Coast is better than that of them. I didn't understand why, because hers sounded very clear to me.
At a subs place, there displayed Newfoundland's flags. To my asking why, the landlady said she was from Newfoundland. Even later, I saw a lot of the flags not only in Nova Scotia but also in New Brunswick. Newfoundland seems to be in a transit point from Europe; however, I don't understand yet why they show the flags of their previous home.
Soon I noticed among the flags in towns was seemingly a tricolour. Some people even put it on their cars in the position of front licence. Speaking this to the landlord of my B&B, he explained they are Acadians; French descendants who were once expelled from Canada by British people. He described them positively; however, when it came to residential areas, he mentioned that it is natural for an ethnic group to reside together avoiding another groups. Seeing on the map of Nova Scotia, there were a lot of markings of Acadian Region distinctively.
I visited the nearest Acadian Region, Isle Madame, and called on the municipal office. Having been asked the Acadian's history there, an English speaking administrative had no data and no such a facility was there. When I referred to Canso, where is just across the sea and used to be an Acadian community before expelled, and asked why the people didn't return there was because of the bad activities of British there, she didn't give me a clear answer.
Bras d'Or Lakes in Cape Briton is a huge tidal water; it reminded me of Lake Hamana in Japan, where used to be my home ground for sea-fishing. However, sadly enough the water here was polluted to be fish enough. I observed no fisher both from off-shore and boats. Near the centre of Bras d'Or Lakes was Eskasoni, which was one of the largest Mi'kmaq reserves in Nova Scotia. I saw a lot of Indian children as well as halves walking on the streets. As I asked a group of them if they have Metis population also, they all, including halves, replied they are Mi'kmaq.
And then, I visited an interpretation centre at Wagmatcook and a young female director received me. I asked her why the children didn't say they are Metis. Surprisingly enough, she didn't know the word of Metis, and she said the people who reside in the community are all Mi'kmaq. When I asked how come Mi'kmaq could survive unlike Beothuk in Newfoundland, she said she hasn't been taught such histories of them from their ancestors. One thing she could spoke out was that education is most important for them and for her high-education she could get that position recently.
She also introduced me that their culture were at a Celtic festivals. To my reply that Celtic should describes Scottish and Irish culture, she explained cultures in Nova Scotia were called as Celt now. However, the art works were very distinctive. Although she mentioned they are very open to such an extent as always unlock every doors, I watched she was locking her office's door inside the facility when I left. I assume she was losing her identity; she was not an Indian but she was not a Canadian, or she might be a Canadian.
Across a bridge, I came a long way to Canso where used to be an Acadian fisher town. There was no Acadian flag among houses. It was a lonely community; the Cod the British had wanted were already caught up by themselves. Entering a restaurant, she gave me a fish and chips of a kind. They were not discriminative like many of Newfoundlanders to me. I wondered if they were the descendants of the British who had burnt away Acadian homes and had expelled them to Europe and the United States.


by tetsu95jp | 2008-01-28 08:01 | 19.Till Nova Scotia